Acetyl Octapeptide-3 CAS:868844-74-0 formulation and application

Acetyl Octapeptide-3 (CAS 868844-74-0) is a well-known synthetic peptide in cosmetic science, often marketed under the trade name SNAP-8. Let’s break down its formulation and application in detail.

1. Identity and Mechanism of Action

· Chemical Identity: It is an acetylated synthetic peptide with the sequence Ac-Glu-Glu-Met-Gln-Arg-Arg-NH2. The acetylation enhances its skin penetration and stability.

· Primary Mechanism: Often called a “topical Botox-alternative,” its action is based on competitive inhibition. It mimics the N-terminal end of the SNAP-25 protein, a key component in the SNARE complex necessary for the release of neurotransmitters (like acetylcholine) that signal muscle contraction.

· Key Effect: By competing with the natural SNAP-25 for a place in the SNARE complex, it inhibits the formation of a fully functional complex. This results in a partial reduction of neurotransmitter release, leading to a decrease in the intensity and frequency of superficial facial muscle contractions, thereby softening the appearance of expression lines, especially on the forehead and around the eyes.

2. Formulation Guidelines

Acetyl Octapeptide-3 is a potent but delicate ingredient. Proper formulation is critical for stability and efficacy.

A) Recommended Concentration:

· Typical use level is between 2% to 10% of a pre-diluted peptide solution.

· The active peptide content in the raw material (often a white lyophilized powder) is usually standardized. Common commercial suppliers provide it as a 2% or 5% pre-dissolved solution (in water or a water/glycerin blend) for easier formulation.

· Final concentration of the active peptide in the end product usually ranges from 0.0005% to 0.002% (5-20 ppm). Always follow the specific dosage recommendations of your raw material supplier.

B) Solubility & Vehicle:

· Highly water-soluble. It is best formulated in the aqueous phase of a product.

· Suitable vehicles include:

· Serums (most common)

· Gels

· Creams and Lotions (must be incorporated into the water phase before emulsification)

· Hydrophilic Ointments

· Sprayable Solutions

C) pH and Stability:

· Optimal pH Range: 5.0 – 7.0. Formulating within this range ensures chemical stability and skin compatibility.

· Avoid highly acidic (pH < 4) or alkaline (pH > 8) environments for prolonged periods.

D) Temperature & Processing:

· Heat Sensitive. To prevent degradation:

· Add to the water phase at or below 40°C (104°F).

· Ideal addition point is after the emulsion has cooled down to below 40°C, or simply dissolve it in room temperature water for serums/gels.

· Avoid high-temperature processing like hot filling unless stability data confirms it.

E) Compatibility & Synergistic Ingredients:

· Excellent with: Other anti-aging peptides (e.g., Matrixyl, Argireline), hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, antioxidants (Vitamins C & E), moisturizers.

· Synergistic Combinations:

· With other neuromodulating peptides: Often combined with Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline) for a broader, multi-target inhibitory effect.

· With collagen-boosting peptides: Combining with peptides like Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 or Matrixyl addresses both dynamic lines (from muscle movement) and static lines (from loss of structural support).

· Avoid: Strong oxidizing or reducing agents. Be cautious with certain ionic compounds that might affect its solubility or conformation.

F) Preservation:

· As a water-soluble ingredient, the final formulation requires a robust broad-spectrum preservative system to prevent microbial growth that could degrade the peptide.